Day 27

10pm. Another day in paradise draws to a close.

The clock is ticking as we now have only 159 miles to run to Tazacorte – that’s a little over 24 hours which is slightly problematic as I refuse to go within 10 miles of the coast in the dark, and actually would prefer to be 30 miles off. That’s become one of my non-negotiables as I have a total phobia of fishing pots in coastal sailing.

Following the bonus sailing night of yesterday/this morning, today has been a quiet day for reading and sleeping, and too much time in the galley which is never good. We’ll try yet another version of galley distribution tomorrow as this current regime isn’t great either – leaves you feeling on top of the world one day, and totally drained the next. So we’ll try turn and turn about. If that doesn’t work it’ll be back to the default of who is the most interested in the next meal.

Elon Musk seems to have joined us tonight with his parade of satellites in formation low in the night sky off our starboard quarter. Presumably they are moving but it’s difficult to know. They just appear to be suspended uncomfortably close overhead.

But the award for entertainment today goes to ………drum roll please…………to the wonderful, charismatic, acrobatic, dynamic, jumping school of dolphins who joined us just as Malcolm was cooking dinner. They were the most enthusiastic accomplished leapers we have ever seen in 26 years since we began this sailing adventure. They were splashing around even before they appeared to notice us, and we thought they were just carrying right on by, until they turned as one and raced each other to see who could get here first. Dolphins have to be one of the most beguiling of animals, always smiling, always frolicking. They keep you endlessly fascinated and appear to be having the best of times themselves too. They cavorted and played on the bow wave for a whole 5 minutes – short and sweet – and then in the blink of an eye they were gone. Yet another pinch me moment. We are so incredibly lucky to be living this life of freedom.

This time tomorrow we should be practically able to smell land. Many would say we should be excited and looking forward to terra firma, but I think it’s safe to say that if it wasn’t for the meetings, and the wheels to oil, the book to write and family, not to mention the desperate shortage of fresh fruit and veg, we’d both gladly voyage on and agree to become ‘citizens of no fixed droplet of water or bricks and mortar’. Being nomadic suits very well.

Day 28
Our last day. What an incredible month we’ve had following the most incredible several months if not years.

Sukama wants to be sailing at 8 knots but we’ve detuned the rig with 3 reefs in the main, 2 in the headsail, to try to slow our passage down. We’re now making just over 6 knots which helps, 5 would be better – I suggested storm jib to Malcolm but he wasn’t going there in 14 knots of wind!

That was several hours ago. Now 9pm, a little early for tales from the night watch, but it’s been another of those ‘you never know what’s around the corner’ days. Charlie had suggested that we take a slightly more northerly route to avoid the worst of the acceleration zone, but at the time we’d jointly decided not to. A few hours later with the wind increasing, waves getting bigger and more unruly, and our detuned rig still making 8 knots we decided to look at another grib file. OK. Fair point. We adjusted our course by 20 degrees. Better aspect to the waves but still way too fast as has us closing the land in the dark.

6.30pm In an effort to share a few of the realities of life on the ocean waves we decided to video me making a cup of tea. Just getting water to land in and not around the teapot and all over the hob is bit of a black art. With tea now in the pot cosily ensconced in the tea cosy kindly made by Jean our video was aborted half way through.

With apparent wind touching 22knots, ‘How about we put up the storm jib’ I asked. ‘OK. Do you want to do it now?’ – came the reply with dusk rapidly approaching.

So with that tea abandoned for now, we donned lifejackets and safety lines and went to work. Luckily it was all prepped and ready to run apart from needing to rethread a line and unleash it. Magic! We’re still riding a bucking bronco but at a sedate speed of 3.5 knots. The downside is that the course is a lot more erratic in spite of the best efforts of George, the plus is it feels somewhat less kamikaze, which of course may well be pure fiction.

Several hours later at 11pm – getting pushed around by the waves and George working overtime. It’s too slow! So headsail + storm jib – who knew we can be a cutter rig after all! Back to 6 knots in 17 kts wind. I retired for a bit of respite with much clattering of lines going on all around. Woke properly less than 2 hours later, Malcolm and Sukama are hurtling along at 8kts in a serious seaway at 30 degrees on the bow. Are you with me still? This is the stuff of movies – pitch black, yacht pitching, the noise is almost a roar as Sukama powers along loving the opportunity to be her best self. Wind topped out at 32 kts. Both M&S (Freudian!) are chilled! Having a blast even. What a way to return to La Palma!

He capitulated on storm jib, I capitulated on closing land in the dark – on this one occasion!

Day 29

Sunrise Tazacorte

We did it!!! Atlantic circuit complete, with a huge amount of special help from our excellent crew, George, Charlie, Donna and team, and the land based social media gurus T-J and Pete.

We arrived to a fabulous sunrise over the mountains, wind which died to nothing, beauty in the ripples, and dolphins who joined for the final lap. What more could you ask? So so blessed, happy and fulfilled.

Celebrated with tea – of course, and Kit Kats! Now it’s time to find the showers and laundry – but wait, how convenient – it’s Friday night so that’ll be cheese and wine. Cheers everyone!!

Watch this space for onward blogs, photos and videos, but wrapping up this circuit for now. Future adventures are in gestation stage, but don’t be shy – drop us a line and come and visit us in beautiful La Palma, you might just find us at home!

Sue x
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Team members: Malcolm, Sue, George the autopilot, Charlie our weather router

Pete and T-J are in the UK receiving and sharing our updates via the wonders of satellite.

Photos and videos from previous crossings by Sukama.